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For those of you who regularly do skin care, you must have read that one of the products you use contains retinol, right? Retinol is commonly used in beauty products. But what is retinol and what are the benefits of retinol?
Come on, look at the detailed explanation below.
History of retinol
Retinol originates from a long history of using animal livers in ancient Egypt to treat blindness. At that time, animal liver was used to cure the eyes of blindness.
Starting from this information, researchers then conducted research, and in 1909 retinol was discovered. Then in 1931 retinol was successfully obtained but in a very unstable form.
As science and technology developed, retinol was finally made in 1947. After that, retinol was widely used as an ingredient in beauty products in 1958.
What is retinol?
Retinol is actually a form of natural Vitamin A. However, the Vitamin A referred to as retinol is different from the Vitamin A contained in foods such as carrots.
In carrots the form is beta carotene or pro vitamin A so to become retinol/vitamin A it must be processed first. The process of changing beta carotene into vitamin A occurs in the human body, specifically in the liver and intestinal surface by the Beta Carotene Enzyme.
Apart from retinol, other derivatives included in natural Vitamin A are retynil-palimate, retinaldehyde/retinal, and tretinoin/retin-A. The use of vitamin A (retinol) must be under the supervision of a doctor.
Apart from cosmetics and beauty products, vitamin A also has many other functions, including playing a role in the body’s immune system, maintaining body balance, and is needed for good vision, bone growth, tooth development, reproduction and cell division.
Retinoid
Retinoids are a group of drugs which are derivatives, vitamers or analogues of Vitamin A. Some are formed naturally and some are synthetically produced by industry according to needs.
These Vitamin A derivative drugs have different potencies or effects based on the potential strength of their effect on the skin. There are low potential, medium potential, and strong potential.
Retinoids in cosmetics
Retinoids which are generally used in cosmetics or beauty products that can be purchased freely in stores are usually in the form of retinol.
This retinol is the weakest form after retinyl-palimate. So its use is relatively safe in patients with sensitive skin.
However, in patients with sensitive skin, the use of any retinoid must be evaluated. If a burning sensation, heat, itching, rashes, pigmentation, rash, etc. appears, you must immediately consult a doctor.
Retinol is most often used in cosmetics or beauty products because it is relatively safe. This happens because when retinol is applied to the skin, it is first converted by enzymes in the skin into retinaldehyde.
Then in the next process retinaldehyde will be processed again into retinoic acid. This conversion, which occurs in two stages, is the reason why retinol is the safest and has the fewest side effects, even though the exfoliation is produced more slowly.
Exfoliate
Skin exfoliation is the process of exfoliating dead skin on the face. Naturally, exfoliation will occur even without the application of cosmetics containing retinoids.
However, naturally new exfoliation occurs every 14 – 21 days. So the application of cosmetics containing retinol provides a faster exfoliating effect as desired by many people.
Dead skin cells are removed and provide an opportunity for new skin cells to appear. This removal of dead skin cells also eliminates hyperpigmentation. So that these new skin cells have brighter shining characteristics.
Apart from that, exfoliation itself has the effect of stimulating collagen formation along with vitamin C. Collagen is an inseparable part of a healthy and firm skin structure. Without collagen, the skin will sag like the skin of elderly people.
Anti-aging effect of retinol
Research on the effects of retinol on the skin conducted by Rong Kong, PhD et al, concluded that retinol is an effective antiaging agent. The skin that was given retinol for 4 weeks was examined, then the skin tissue was observed using a microscope.
There was an increase in epidermal thickness and increased expression of genes that produce collagen Type 1 (COL1A1) and collagen Type 3 (COL3A1). Apart from that, retinol application also inhibits the matrix-metalloproteinase enzyme which is usually activated by ultraviolet light from the sun.
Another study conducted by Shao Y et al further succeeded in finding that retinol application had an effect on 3 types of skin cells. The types of skin affected by retinol include epidermal keratinocyte cells, dermal endothelial cells, and fibroblast cells.
These cells play a significant role in repairing the face from wrinkles.
Strong potency retinoid
If the use of retinol tends to be safe because of its weak potency, then there are several retinoid drugs that have strong potency but must be given according to a doctor’s prescription.
So strong potency retinoids should not be in cosmetics or skin care products that are sold freely or OTC (Over The Counter). Strong potential retinoids include tretinoin/retin-A, adapalene, tazarotene, and isotretinoin.
Retinol side effects
The use of retinol in beauty products is relatively safe because its concentration is small and its use is applied or rubbed on the skin.
However, Retinol or vitamin A in high doses, such as when consuming animal liver and consuming Vitamin A capsules that are swallowed, requires attention to the dosage so that it does not exceed the safe limit.
For adult men, the recommended dose of retinol or vitamin A is 900 mcg/day (3000 U/day) and for adult women 700 mcg/day (2330 U/day).
It should be noted that pregnant and breastfeeding women require different doses. Pregnant women require a dose of 750 – 770 mcg/day (2500 – 2600 U/day) and breastfeeding women require 1300 mcg (4330 U).
Giving retinol or vitamin A should not exceed the recommended dose to avoid side effects. It’s a good idea to consult further with a doctor to get a medical explanation.
